Simón Bolívar: Explorador de sabores regionales

Simón Bolívar: Explorador de sabores regionales

Simón Bolívar: Explorador de sabores regionales

Las arepas de Venezuela y el chupe de gallina de Perú y Ecuador fueron algunos de los platos favoritos del mapa gastronómico del Libertador de media Sudamérica.

Nuestros próceres máximos suelen ser colocados en una suerte de Olimpo inaccesible, en el que su historia se cuenta sin máculas ni hechos que los vuelvan humanos y asimilables a personas comunes con las que nos podemos cruzar en la vida y con las que podemos departir amablemente.

Simón Bolívar fue endiosado en vida, y tuvo la justa admiración que llevó a que lo llamaran cariñosamente “culo de lata”: las interminables jornadas cabalgando Sudamérica desde el Perú hasta el Caribe hablan de que tenía un callo que lo protegía de eventuales lastimaduras en un lugar tan incómodo.

Y claro, como ser humano común, el hombre también necesitaba comer, y cuando podía lo hacía con particular refinamiento. La finca, que hoy es la fábrica de ron Santa Teresa, muestra que su modo de vida, cuando pudo llevarlo, fue realmente señorial.

Sus hábitos gastronómicos conocieron las buenas mesas madrileñas, ya que sus padres lo enviaron a estudiar a España cuando tenía tan solo 15 años. Allá se enamoró de una dama dos años mayor que él – María Teresa Rodríguez del Toro y Alaiza-, con la que se casó y se fue a vivir a La Coruña. El siguiente destino fue Caracas nuevamente. Terminó recalando en la “Casa Grande” de la familia en la localidad de San Mateo, casa que abandonó para encarar la gesta libertadora.

El recorrido de su periplo apunta a ver que su formación gastronómica fue originalmente española. A partir de su permanencia en América y con el comienzo de la campaña, Bolívar valoró las virtudes de la cocina criolla, y asimismo conoció las cocinas andinas, la de los llanos, y todas las variantes regionales que supo honrar a medida que se desplazaba de una punta a la otra del continente.

Esto quiere decir que en Caracas y los alrededores supo apreciar las arepas hechas con harina de trigo. En los llanos venezolanos disfrutó de abundantes desayunos, con buen café y un plato que consistía en yuca o mandioca, plátano verde –bien diferente de nuestras conocidas bananas, ya que no se come crudo-, y carne de vaca cortada en pequeñísimos trozos. Al moverse por los Andes también consumió las arepas de trigo y la omnipresente papa. Crónicas de la época dicen que a su paso por Ecuador y Perú hizo del chupe de gallina su plato favorito. Este plato fue adoptado por las sociedades patricias locales. Para que el ceviche entrara en Lima habría que esperar hasta 1990…

No obstante, don Simón recorría todas estas regiones exaltando las virtudes de la comida venezolana que siempre añoró. Y muchas veces pedía que le prepararan un plato tan icónico como las arepas: las hallacas.

Las hallacas vienen a ser una suerte de tamales, en los que se usa harina de maíz y carnes diversas que se incluyen de acuerdo a lo que hay a mano. Solo que las exquisitas hallacas tienen una particularidad: en lugar de hojas de chala de maíz para envolver y cocer la preparación usan las hojas de los abundantes plátanos.

Ambos platos, las arepas y las hallacas en todas sus variantes, siguen haciendo las delicias de los venezolanos y de quienes visitan su país. Sin duda que el creador de la Gran Colombia, Libertador de media Sudamérica y reconocido estratega militar, tenía buen gusto. No obstante, su vida terminaría con una frase dolorosa: “…ahora comprendo que he arado en el mar…”.

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